Museum Sofia Reina and Oxygen Hostel
Madrid, Oxygen Hostel
Stayed in Madrid at the Oxygen Hostel, which has cubical compartments that you stay in. They weren’t very soundproof but the people who walked down the aisles thought they were soundproof and they talked a lot. Very close to the Atocha Train Station which is good. Very close to the Museo Sofia Reina where I went to see Picasso’s Guernica Painting. Went down the night before and got my train ticket, which saved a big hassle in the morning. 7:35 am train to Pamplona which arrived 10:45 am. Had to figure out how to get to the Bus Station. Followed some other pilgrims and hopped on a city bus to get there. I did purchase a ticket to St Jean ahead of time and the bus was filled. Some pilgrims that didn’t have a ticket pooled together and got a taxi.
Community room in the St Jean Municipal Albergue, me starting the Camino, and a view after hiking a ways.
St Jean Pied de Port, Municipal Albergue
Made it to St Jean at 1:45 pm and went straight to the Pilgrims Office to get my credentials. They said that the Municipal Albergue would be opening up at 2pm and that I should go there. That’s what I did. The albergue is on the top of the main street in St Jean, a few blocks up from the Pilgrims Office. Nice enough albergue with several floors going down the hill. The Albergues filled up and the people who arrived at St Jean at 4 pm on the train had to sleep in the school gym.
Burguette, Casa Rural Pedroarena
Got up early and started hiking before dawn. Had a long hard day and made it over to Roncesvalles at 4pm. There were no beds available there. Apparently, they have no longer have a overflow capacity. People who arrived at Roncesvalles around 2 pm were able to get a bed because the albergue there keeps some beds nonreservable. I kept walking to Burguette and checked at the Lorentz which was full. The guy called the Albergue in Espinal and they were full, too. He suggested I check at the Casa around the corner, which I did and got a room for $45. It’s called the Casa Rural Pedroarena, where I got the last room. I think it was the last room in Burguette. The only place on the Camino where I stayed in a private room. Day 1, St Jean Pied de Port to Burguette, 27.9 km, 17.3 miles
Zubiri, Municipal Albergue
Woke up had breakfast at the Casa Rural. Hiked with only one break going over to Zubiri where I got a bed at the Municipal Albergue. I was only able to get a top bunk here, so I put a rope across it so I wouldn’t fall out. It’s the building with the big mural on the front of it. Nice enough facilities. Everybody went down to the river and played in it. Ate at the café that is between the Albergue and the roman bridge over the river. Day 2. Burguette to Zubiri, 18.7 km, 11.6 miles
Pamplona, Jesus Y Mary Albergue
The next day I hiked into Pamplona where I wasn’t all that concerned about getting a bed for the night due to the many accommodations there. Got a bed at the big Jesus & Mary Albergue about two blocks from the cathedral. The Albergue is in a former church. This is a big albergue, but it’s spread out. Seemed kind of dark at all times. Went to see all the sights in Pamplona including the Cathedral, Hemingway Statue, Running of the Bulls Statue and Wounded Ignatius Statue. First met Win at the Albergue. Can’t remember where I ate. Day 3. Zubiri to Pamplona, 20.9 km, 13 miles
Puenta la Reina, Albergue Santiago Apostal
Headed over to Puenta la Reina the next day where I didn’t have a reservation. When I got there I was told the main albergue was filled up. I hiked to the end of town and crossed the bridge. Then I went up a hill to the Albergue Santiago Apostal. They were pretty much full too, but I got a bed on the overflow balcony above the bathrooms. They had a nice pilgrims meal with choices. People were camping in the yard. The pool was closed and empty, perhaps due to the drought. Day 4. Pamplona to Puente la Reina, 23.9 km, 14.8 miles
Ayegui, Albergue San Cipriano
Because of the bed scare in Puenta la Reina, I decided to book a room for the next night. I booked a room in Ayegui, which was the next town after the end of the stage at Estella. It was at the San Cipriano Albergue, which is part of a sports arena. Fortunately, there were no sportings events going on that evening, but the next night there would be. Nice newer building. This Albergue wasn’t even filled up for the night. That was a first for my Camino, perhaps because it was beyond the end of the stage. Had a pilgrims meal with choices. Got to know Jonas and Mie at this Albergue. Day 5, Puente la Reina to Ayegui, 29.3 km, 18.1 miles.
Torres del Rio, Casa Mariela
Decided to go past the end of the stage again today. Booked a room at the Casa Mariela in Torres del Rio. So I passed up Los Arcos and kept going. I could see the twin towns of Sansol and Torres del Rio for a long ways out, and it seemed to take forever to get there. The Casa Mariela says it has a pilgrims meal and a pool but both of those are located at a hotel about a block away. The pool was very cold but both Brody and I went in. The Pilgrims meal was good with choices. The Albergue had lots of stairs to go up. Nice Octagon Church only a block away but I didn’t get a chance to go inside. Day 6: Ayegui to Torres del Rio, 28 km 17.4 miles
Logrono, Municipal Shelter
Hiked through the nice town of Viana and then around a hill to where Logrono was laid out down below. Had to get some money and a cover for my IPhone. Managed to do that before siesta time. Went down and got a room at the Municipal Albergue. The bunks were crammed together and there were tight spaces in the dormitory. Nice foot soaking pool in the courtyard. The Hospitalero repairs blisters and other foot ailments. Some people had nasty blisters. They say that Logrono is the blister Capitol of the World. Went out for Tapas with Larry from Ireland and Doug from Oregon on the famous Tapas Bar Street. Day 7: Torres del Rio to Logrono, 20.5 km, 12.75 miles
Najera, Municipal Shelter
Hiked through the nice town of Naverette. Took the shorter route along the highway instead of going into Ventosa. I did that mainly because I didn’t have a bed for that night. Kept going, went over the river bridge in Najera and took a left along the river with Brodie to get to the Municipal Albergue. Got a bed there, but they have reduced the number of beds from 70 to 48 because of Covid. Some people who arrived later were scrambling for a bed in town. Day 8, Logrono to Najera, 28.7 KM, 17.8 miles
Granon, San Juan Bautista Church Hostel
Had a mid morning meal at the Ciruena Golf Course Club House where Win had me sign his kite. Continued on past Santo Domingo then up to the small town of Granon. Got a spot at the San Juan Bautista Church Hostel. I said I wanted a spot near the bathroom so they put me in a room on the ground floor. Sleep on mats. Good community meal. I sang “She’s got the biggest pack of them all” to Emily at supper between courses. Lots of stairs getting up to the main level for supper and breakfast. We had 61 people that night which was one of their bigger nights. The lady said that two nights earlier they only had 9 people. Day 9, Najera to Granon, 28.7 km, 17.8 miles
Belorado, Albergue de Perigrinos A Santiago
I pre-booked a bed at the Albergue de Perigrinos A Santiago at the beginning of Belorado. So, it was a short day. Everyone wanted to stay there because they had a pool and it was hot. But the pool was cold as an iceberg, but the rest of the Albergue was good including a nice café/bar. Went down into the town and explored. Day 10. Granon to Belorado, 16 km, 10 miles
Atapuerca, Albergue La Plazuela Verde
I pre-booked a bed at Albergue La Plazuela Verde in Atapuerca. Went through several small towns then at Villafranca Montes de Oca the way takes a long run up. Went past a mass grave site from the Spanish Civil War. Kept going to St Juan de Ortega where there is a big church dedicated to the saint. Went past Ages and it started raining before Atapuerca. Made it to the Albergue La Plazuela Verde, where I realized I left something back in Belorado. They had Jesus drive me all the way back to retrieve my bag from the A Santiago Albergue. That pretty much saved my Camino. The Albergue in Atapuerca is a nice small albergue that they are still working on. Has bunk beds built into the wall with curtains. Day 11, Belorado to Atapuerca, 30.6 km, 19 miles
Burgos, Municipal Albergue
Got going and forgot my hiking poles at the albergue. Had to go back and luckily there were some pilgrims still there because I had forgotten the door code. From Atapuerca, the trail goes up over a rather large and rocky hill. Slow going in the dark, but at the top you could see the twinkling lights of Burgos. Went downhill and had breakfast at Cardenuela. Decided to take the river route into Burgos. Goes along the airport for a long time and is rather annoying. Goes along the river for a long time. Finally make it to the Municipal Albergue. Nice new building with modern architectural features. Had lunch with Win at a Street Café. The Albergue is only a couple blocks from the Cathedral where I took a tour and went to Mass in the evening. Day 12, Atapuerca to Burgos, 20.6 km, 12.8 miles
Hontanas, Municipal Albergue
Left Burgos in the dark with a nice dark photo of the Cathedral. Went past several big highways and train tracks on the way to Tardejos. Saw Hornillos way out in the distance but took a while to get there. Continued on and experienced a hilly meseta. Big wind and rain at San Bol. Continued on and reached Hontanas which is down in a hole sheltered from the wind. Stayed at the Municipal Shelter – Old Hospital San Juan. I liked the salad at the community meal, but the lentil main course wasn’t too appealing to me. But the Germans and Italians gobbled it up. Otherwise, the facilities were fine. Nice little church in Hontanas. Day 13. Burgos to Hontanas, 32.7 km, 19.7 miles
Boadilla, Albergue En El Camino
Went through the San Anton Arch in the dark. Was very spooky. Headed through Castrojeriz and then up Alto Mostelares, the roof of the meseta. What a thrill that was. Had a great view towards Castrojeriz then hiked for 1 km and had a great view towards Fromista. Was on top of the hill with Jonas, Mie and Maddy. Went down the hill to the St Nicolas Albergue where Francesca wanted me to try Italian Coffee. No, thanks, I don’t drink coffee. Went across the river and through Itero with a nice wall painting. Could see Boadilla a long ways before I got there. I finally did. The Albergue is in two parts. There is a building to the left of the hotel and then there is a big room on the third floor of the Hotel. It’s nice but kind of feels like an attic with the roof slanting down on each side of the room. This room only had single beds with no bunks where the other building had bunks. Having a single bed was nice. The hotel building was newer than the Albergue building. Over at the other Albergue building there was a small pool but it was frigid. Nice pilgrims meal with choices at the hotel restaurant. Day 14, Hontanas to Boadillos, 29 km, 18 miles
Carrion de los Condes, Albergue Espiritu Santo
Hiked over to Fromista for a breakfast snack. Went through several small towns that I don’t remember too much about. Went into Carrion de los Condes and turned to the left at the pilgrim statue to get the Albergue. The rooms with the beds are on the second floor. Very big Albergue with several rooms and many beds. No bunk beds, all lower beds. Other people wanted to be in the Albergue with the Singing Nuns, but I didn’t know anything about that, and I was happy where I was. Went over and caught the tail end of a singing nuns performance right before Mass. Mass had a very extensive Pilgrims Blessing. Carrion is a town many people stop at because the next town with an Albergue is 17 km away. Day 15. Boadillos to Carrion de los Condes, 25.4 km, 15.25 miles
Teradillos de los Templarios, Albergue Jacques de Molay
From Carrion, I started hiking into the 17 km void. First The Way went along the highway then it started going between the farm fields. No towns but there were two food trucks along the way. Finally got to Calzadilla, which I don’t remember very much. Went to Ledigos where I somehow lost The Way and walked down a road to reconnect with it. Went into Terradillos and stopped by the first Albergue and they said they still had beds. Kept going because I sent my backpack to the Jacques de Molay Albergue. The lady there said they were filled up, so then I was going to gather my backpack and head back to the other albergue. Then she asked me if I would mind sleeping on a pad on the floor. She led me to a community room and that’s where I stayed. Another guy, Simon from Ireland, also stayed on a pad in the room. I called it the room of desperate men. Good pilgrims meal here. Day 16, Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios, 28.6 km, 16.6 miles
Bercianos, Parroquial Casa Rectoral
Got going early from Terradillos because a bunch of my Camino Friends were planning to have brunch in Sahagun. Missed a turn in Moratinos and ate at a café in San Nicholas. Right before Sahagun, the trail takes a right turn and crosses the road we’d been hiking next to for a while. It goes to an old church and the half way monument. Some of my friends were there taking a break. We all hiked into Sahagun and had brunch at a café. Hiked next to the road again up to Bercianos. The first albergues were full. Hiked to the Casa Rectoral at the far end of town. It was just about to open and there were a line of pilgrims. There were 25 pilgrims in line and according to the guidebook there are 44 beds, so I managed to get a bed for the night. Communal meal where I led the group in “We Will Rock You” by Queen. Older building but very adequate for my needs. Had an extra room for prayer. Had a prayer candle session after supper. If you need wifi you have to go to the bar around the corner. Day 17. Terridillos to Bercianos de Real Camino, 25.5 km, 14.6 miles
Punte Villarente, Albergue San Pelayo
Had a little breakfast at the Albergue in Bercianos. Hiked up to El Burgo Rancho and had some more breakfast. Started hiking a 13 km stretch without a town. Unlike the previous 17 km stretch with no town, this stretch had no food trucks. Heard rumors that Mansilla was all filled up. They had shut down the municipal albergue, and now the town fills up fast. Heard another rumor that sometimes when it’s busy they open the municipal. Made it to Reliegos and had a snack. Some people decided to stop and stay there because they heard Mansilla was filled. Went to Mansilla and found out the town was filled and they were not going to open the Municipal. Was going to take a bus into Leon, but the Michigan Couple called an Albergue in Villarente and got beds. I called and got a bed too. Hiked up to Villarente, which made for a really long day. The Albergue San Pelayo doesn’t look like much from the outside, but it is great inside with two courtyards and everything looks remodeled within the last few years. Had bunk beds and just lower beds and I took a lower bed. Great Pilgrims meal with choices. Turned out to be the best albergue I stayed at. Day 18. Bercianos to Puente Villarente, 32 km, 20.25 miles
Leon, Albergue Santa Maria Carbajal
Hiking all the way to Villarente made for a short day into Leon. Hiked through the urban sprawl into the beginning of the old part of town. Some of my friends were staying at the Santa Maria Carbajal Albergue so I decided to go there, too. It’s a big albergue with a low price. The Albergue was older, but not bad. It had lockers, too. Got a lower bunk and proceeded to explore the city. The Albergue is a little far from the Cathedral for my liking. It was about 10 to 15 blocks. Went though the Cathedral but didn’t do the Gaudi Museum. Went out for drinks and tapas at the Plaza Obanos. Made it back to the Albergues at 9 pm for a prayer vigil with the sisters of the church. Day 19. Puente Villarente to Leon, 12 km, 7.5 miles
Brodie picks up the shirt I left at the Albergue, Impressive bridge coming into town
Hospital de Orbigo, Albergue parroquial Karl Leisner
Had a donation breakfast at the Santa Maria Albergue. Headed out through the suburban sprawl of La Virgen del Camino, Valverde and San Miquel. Had lunch a a café in Villidangos. Headed up to San Martin where I thought my friends were staying. But they were not there, and San Martin didn’t look like much of a town so I kept going to Hospital de Orbigo. Coming into town there is a nice and long roman bridge. Hiked to the Karl Leisner Albergue and got a bottom bunk bed. Albergue seemed really compartmentalized. First there was the kitchen compartment, then the bathrooms and showers, then a compartment with bunkbeds and another compartment with bunk beds. So, basically, what that means is that when you are in your bunkhouse compartment you need to go outside to get to the bathrooms. Not too convenient in the middle of the night. The albergue did have a nice courtyard. There was supposed to be 96 beds at this albergue but I only seen two compartments with about 12 beds total each. So, I’m not sure where all the other beds are. Emily from the Czech Republic made us a nice meal. Left my blue lightning shirt hanging on the clothesline. Brody picked it up for me the next day. Day 20. Leon to Hospital de Orbison, 32.1 km, 20 miles
Santa Catalina, Donativo La Boheme
Got to the far end of Hospital de Orbigo and had to make a choice between two routes. I chose the route next to the highway, which I thought wouldn’t last that long. So I started hiking next to the road in the dark. I thought I was going to cut back over away from the highway at Santibanez, but the arrows there still pointed for going next to the highway, so I kept going that way. As a result I missed two towns that might have had breakfast cafes. The two routes merge at a big cross right before San Justo, where I stopped at a café and had a bigger breakfast. Met the two Brazilian Ladies when I crossed the big green bridge of ramps over the railroad tracks. Hiked into Astorga with them, but they were staying at the first Albergue so we parted ways. Prayed at a church near their Albergue. Got postcards and went to the library to write them out. Went to the Gaudi designed palace and toured it. It was fantastic. I was in no hurry because I already had a bed for the night because I whatsapped the La Boheme Donativo. Hiked out of Astorga and to Murias, a town that doesn’t have any ice cream for sale. Headed into Santa Catalina to the Albergue. This Albergue is now known to us as the hippie hostal. It was nice enough, but the stairs up to the beds was incredibly steep and made out of irregular pieces of wood. This would not meet the fire code in the United States. Plus I had to go down the staircase for my nightly bathroom break. They did have an automatic light for the staircase. The owner says he’s going to build another staircase going out to the courtyard. Nice enough pilgrims meal and had stuff for breakfast. Donated $20 euros. Day 21, Hospital de Orbigo to Santa Catalina, 26.2 km, 16.25 miles
Riegos de Ambros, Municipal Albergue.
Don’t remember much about El Ganzo except I walked past the Cowboy Bar which was closed because it was too early. Continued on to Rabanal where I had breakfast. The way starts going up right in Rabanal. You get up to a church that has a Convent. Stopped in for a prayer and a sello. The Way keeps going up at a steady rate but not too steep all the way to Foncebadon. Had lunch at a café there. Foncebadon has a cross in the middle of the road, which is unusual. Continue going up steadily but not overwhelming all the way to Cruz de Ferro. Placed a Geode from my Mississippi River Trip at the bottom of the iron cross. Kept going and the trail becomes a rocky mess. Made it down to Manjarin, which isn’t much of a town but has a food trailer I stopped at. Still had rocky stretches going down to Acebo. There was one spot where I had to slide down on my butt. Got into town and my backpack wasn’t at the Albergue where I thought it would be. The lady said it’s probably at their other property at the other end of town. So, I went down to the other end of town to a nice hotel that looked like a resort. My backpack was there. I could see Rioga de Ambros off in the distance and it looked like easy hiking to get there, so I decided to go there. Went to the Municipal Albergue there where I shared a 4 bunk cubicle with Jonas and Mie. Had a nice pilgrims meal. Had to go to the bar at the other hotel for wifi. The kids said they booked their flight home, so they would be doing bigger days from now on. I knew I wouldn’t be able to keep up with them. So, tonight would be our last night together for a while. Day 22, Santa Catalina to Riojas de Ambros, 31.2 km 19.4 miles
Pieros, Albergue El Serbal y la Luna
After Riegos the way becomes a rocky mess. I had to go slow in the dark with my headlamp. I was surprised because The Way came into town on a nice gravel road, I thought it would be nice leaving the town. But it was a slow rocky descent. Kept being bad on an off all the way to Molinaseca where I had breakfast. Had to decide between two routes before Ponferada. I took the more scenic route through Campo. But it wasn’t all that scenic. After Campo, it did have a nice roman bridge coming into Ponferrada. Went up to an old castle and church. Didn’t tour them. Ate at a café nearby. After Ponferrada, I hiked through several long towns. At Columbrianos, locals gave me some grapes they were harvesting. Stopped at a café with Sonne in Fuente Nuevas. Hiked into the long town of Camponaya. After Camponaya there was actually some hiking in the countryside, where most everything before that was towns. Hiked all the way through Cacabellos and was headed to the Municipal Albergue at the far end of town. A bicycle perigrino stopped me and said the Municipal was closed. Last night was the last night they were open for the year. Sonne and Victoria were nearby and I gave them the news. Sonne called the albergue in Pieros and they said they were full, except they had an overflow area we could stay at. So, we went there and I got a bunk and the gals slept in the overflow area. Looks like they had a nice pilgrims meal but I didn’t have it. I went up to a nearby bar. Perhaps I thought the Pilgrims Meal would be too much food or something like that. They had a room upstairs for reflection and for Victoria to do yoga in. Day 23. Riojas de Ambros to Pieros, 29.7 km, 18.5 miles
Las Herrrerias, Casa Lixi Hotel Albergue
Ate some breakfast at the Albergue then hiked over to Villafranca de Bierzo and had more breakfast. Villafranca has a nice fortress and an old church with a convent. After Villafranca the way starts going up. Eventually you get to a place where a four lane highway comes out of the mountain. Then you are hiking down below the highway for the rest of the day. Your other companion for the whole day is the River Valcarce. You cross it like 15 times. You hike through the towns of Vega de Valcarce and Ruitelan with tall highway bridges overhead. You see tunnels through the mountains, too. Got up to Las Herrerias where I had pre-booked a bed for the night. Casa Lixi is a really nice place that looks new. The restaurant is on the first floor, Albergue with bunkbed rooms are on the second floor and private rooms are on the third floor. Ate supper at the restaurant and was pretty pooped out so I didn’t do much exploring of the town. But the town did have a cow pasture across the main street that the Albergue was on. That was unusual. Day 24. Pieros to Los Herrerias, 26.5 km. 16.4 miles.
Fillobal, Albergue Fillobal
I stopped at Las Herrerias because I wanted to do the climb up to O Cebrairo in the morning. Ate breakfast at the Casa Lixi and I was on my way. The Way goes up at a steady rate. I ate a snack at LaFaba and didn’t stop in Laguna. Made it up to the Galicia sign that welcomes you into the province. I found out over the course of the following week that hiking in Galicia is great. They really take care of the trail here. Got into O Cebreiro and spent over an hour looking around. Lit a couple candles in the church where they have lots of candles. Some of the other churches have electronic candles, not here. They have racks and more racks of real candles. Took a photo at the Father Valina memorial. He’s the guy credited with reviving the Camino back in the 1980s. Took the mandatory photo sitting on the rock wall with a great view behind me. Bought a couple postcards then I wanted to get out of town because there were too many tourists. Hiked over to San Rogue where I took a photo with the Statue of the Perigrino holding onto his hat in the wind. The trail went down from there then a hard up to Alto Poio, the third highest point on the Camino. Stopped at the bar there for a snack. Went downhill from there through some towns to Filoball, where I had pre-booked a bed for the night. Nice Albergue and restaurant next door. The albergue had electrical outlets and shelves for every bed. But there is nothing much in this town. Just a statue of a caveman, which is there because they have some early man ruins nearby. Day 25, Las Herrerias to Fillobal, 25.3 km 15.75 miles
Sarria, Xunta Municipal Albergue
In Fillobal I ate breakfast at the nice restaurant next to the Albergue. The Way went mainly downhill into Tricastella. Ate and had a bathroom break there. Had to decide between two routes after Tricastela. Took the shorter San Xil Route that turned out to be quite spectacular. Went uphill on a old country road through the pasture lands. Looked a lot like the coolee area of Wisconsin. Got up to San Xil and the trail leveled out with great views for several kilometers. Bought a candy bar from a vending machine in Montan. Sat down and a cat visited me. Must be the vending machine cat. The Way started going down a kept going down at a steady rate. Reached Sarria and had to go up a giant stairs to reach the Albergue. The Albergue was nice enough, and we didn’t have very many people. Maybe if the Albergue was filled it would be a little annoying. But it was just fine for my purposes. Day 26: Fillobal to Sarria, 21.8 km, 13.5 miles
Portamarin, Albergue Ferramenteiro
Had breakfast at the nearbly Café Escalinata. Headed out of town and had my photo taken at the Sarria Letters in the dark. It lightened up then all of a sudden there were hoards of High School Student hiking The Way. Hiked through several small towns that I don’t remember too much from. At one point I had to decide from 3 routes going into Portomarin. I chose the one with a big gully you had to hike through. Finished that then hiked across a big bridge. Hiked up a stairs and turned to the left for the Albergue, when the main part of town was to the right. Huge Albergue with lots of beds all in one room, except there were room dividers. I pre-booked a bed there. Went out to eat and had a hard time finding a spot that wasn’t filled. Managed to find a bar that had pizza. Finished eating just in time for mass at St Xoan. The high school kids from Barcelona showed up at mass and did the readings. The Albergue was big, but it was nice. Day 27: Sarria to Portomarin, 22 km, 14.1 miles
St Xulien, Albergure O Abrigadoiro
I had called the O Abrigadoiro Albergue the night before and they said they had an opening, but I told them I would call them the next day. I wasn’t sure how far I would make it due to the rain. Ate breakfast ate the Albergue Ferramentairo with Stacia from Nebraska. Made some last minute adjustments due to the rain then left. The way goes down on the streets in switchback fashion. It crosses a bridge and goes up a hill. Went past a little town called Campos de Mamoa, which isn’t shown on the maps. It kept raining on and off. I went through several small towns and had a second breakfast. One town, Airexe, sounds like a computer file. Went to Lestido and prayed at a small church. Went mainly downhill to Palas del Rei. Got my backpack at the Benito Albergue which was filled with kids from Barcelona. Continued through the streets of Palas del Rei, which looks a little run down. It was raining on and off. I called over to the O Abrigadoiro Albergue and they still had a bed for me. Headed out the other side of town next to a highway. Then it was one last push through the woods to San Xulien, which has an Albergue and bar/cafe. The Albergue has two rooms with bunk beds for 8 people each. I was the only guy there that night. The rest of the Albergue was filled with women. Café was located across the street and is owned by the same people. Nothing else to see in this little town. But at least I got away from all the High School kids. They were all staying in Palas del Rei. Day 28: Portomarin to San Xulien, 25 km, 15.9 miles
Arzua, Cruce de Camino Albergue.
Hiked out of San Xulien past an old church. Went through the woods over the Casanova. Posed at a pilgrims statue in one of the small towns along the way. Came into Melide and ate at a cafe, then went to the post office and mailed some postcards. The trail went up in the city then went down through some small towns. Had a long uphill run coming into Ribadiso. Had a coke and cake at a cafe with Victoria. She wanted to stay in Ribadiso because she was convinced that Arzua was ugly. That was the last time I saw Victoria. I wish her and her country Ukraine well. I kept going and I met a couple from Madison. They are Jim and Deborah who live on the west side. They were doing big miles today. Made it into Arzua. It was nice. Nicer than Palas del Rei. I had reserved a bed at Cruce de Camino so I went there. Nice Albergue that looks modern and new. Tacos for supper at a bar/café down the street. Confession and Mass. Fr Joe Felix said I would be a better man because of the Camino. Day 29, San Xulien to Arzua, 28.8 km, 16 miles
Lavacolla, Albergue Lavacolla.
Started out on the streets of Arzua trying to find a place to eat. Found one next to a city park. Then headed out of town darkness came fast hiking through the enchanted forest passed unnamed in little towns. Went through Peroxa then past a memorial for a pilgrim that died on the trail. Went over a highway and through the towns of Salieda and A Rua, towns that actually had name signs. Went to OPedrouso but didn’t go in the town because the Camino skirts around the outside of the town. But OPedrouso did have some great wall paintings. Called and got a bed for the night at Lavacolla. Relaxed and ate at Amenal. Hiked around the airport. Found a bus for the Barcelona Students and met Fr Joe Felix again. Hiked into Lavacolla and found the Albergue. It is a big L shaped room with about 40 beds including some lower beds and some bunk beds. Nice separate building for cooking and dining but you had to cook the food yourself. There is a little Super Mercardo just across the street. It is a rather long hike of 700 meters to get to a bar/café that served food before 8 pm. Other people were getting pizza delivered. Took at dip in the creek nearby. Even though the Albergue was completely booked on booking.com, it still had available beds. Some people come back from Santiago and sleep here to be close to the airport. You can see the airport tower from the Albergue. Day 30. Arzua to Lavacolla, 28.5 km, 17.7 miles
Santiago de Compostella, Loop Inn
Started hiking at 7:10. Brodie started at 6:30 at O Pedrouzo and would be catching up to me. Foggy day. I hiked over to Villamaior where I stopped for breakfast. Somehow after the breakfast I started hiking and got on the complementary route. But I kept hiking. Went by some commercial buildings including a radio compound. Connected with the other route at a campground near San Marcos. Went to Monto de Gozo and started looking for the famous statue. In one of the buildings I saw Fr Joe and the Barcelona School Group. Finally found the spot the Statue used to be. It has been taken away. Monto de Gozo is known as the first spot where you can see the Cathedral, but Santiago was fogged in so I couldn’t see it. Went down a nice ramp that should have had a great view of the Cathedral. Crossed a river and stopped for a photo at the famous Santiago de Compestella sign. Hiked through the streets of Santiago. Stopped at a Cafe and ate. Waited for Brodie who I had arranged to walk to the Cathedral with. Met Brodie and we hiked into the Cathedral Plaza. Just took it all in for a while, saw some other people we knew, then went to the pilgrims office. There was nobody there so I went right in and got my compestella. Ate Lunch and went to the hotel. I pre-booked the Loop Inn because Brodie was staying there. Nice hotel that had both private rooms and rooms for 8 pilgrims. I was in the 8 bed room, but we only had 4 people. Went to Mass at the Cathedral later on that night. Day 31. Lavacolla to Santiago, 10 km, 6.2 miles.
Fisterra, Albergue Fin da Terra do Camino
Got up and went to the 10:30 Mass in English at the Pilgrims Office. Gave the priest my letter from David Dyer, and the priest dedicated the mass to him. David is a guy I know from Karaoke in Madison. The doctors have told him that he has a terminal disease. Hiked to the bus station and just barely made it there. My map app on the phone was sending me to a different bus station. A tourist on the streets helped me figure it out. Took a 2 hour bus ride that went through several cool towns along the shore. Made it to Fisterra and hiked to the Albergue Mie and Jonas were staying at. Nice townhouse that an older lady was renting out rooms. Had a room with 4 beds but there was only two of us in the room. Hiked out and had a wonderful evening at the lighthouse at Finnesterre. Win finally got his kite to fly after spending 30 minutes trying to get it up. Everyone was taking photos at the 0 km marker. We came back to Fisterra in the dark. Had a little picnic down by the beach then called it a night.
Santiago de Compostella, Seminario Menor
Went down and had breakfast at a café across from the Bus Station. Everyone was there including Win and Maddie who would continue hiking to Muxia instead of taking the bus. Win in his final comments to the kids gave them a message about quitting smoking. I showed everyone a photo of The Griz who had died of lung cancer. I was in full agreement with Win. Later, he thanked me for contributing to his message. Took the bus back to Santiago. Got back and headed to the Albergue that Jonas and Mie like. It is the Seminario Menor, a huge former Seminary that has 170 beds. All of them are lower beds and you have a locker next to your bed to lock up your stuff. It has all the amenities that you need including a cafeteria in the basement. We went out exploring the town. Unfortunately, to get to the Cathedral you have to go down a big hill then go up another hill. Went through the Fish Market. Went to the Cathedral Plaza and saw the elusive Mr Lee from South Korea. I also saw Valerie from Italy, Franz from Germany, the lady with the dog and the man who rolled his suitcase for the entire Camino. Jonas, Mie and I did some shopping then parted ways for a while to get some different things completed. Met back in the Cathedral Plaza later on. Went out to eat with Jonas and Mie, Brody from Australia, Emma from New Zealand and Tim from Chicago. Went back to the Albergue while the kids went to Emma’s Hotel room for wine.
Barcelona, Generator Hostel
Walked to the bus stop for the Airport Bus with Jonas and Mie. I was sad to see them go. I had gotten attached to them over the last few weeks. Hiked to the train station and got tickets to Barcelona. Took the train to Madrid and Brodie happened to be on the same train. Had a beer together back in the hospitality car. When I got to Charmartin Station in Madrid, Brodie got me to a local train to Atocha. Thank you very much. Made it to Attocha and got on the train to Barcelona. Arrived in Barcelona in the dark. Was a little bit afraid to hike in the dark, then I saw several parents walking around with their little kids, so I thought I must be safe. Hiked over 3 km to the Generator Hostel. It is a modern hostel with a bar and lounging areas. It has a rooftop deck that I never managed to visit. Stayed there for 3 days in 8 person rooms. Has a great breakfast for 7 euros. Visited the Sagrada Familia by Gaudi. That was fantastic. Spent 3 hours at the train station to book a train to Montpelier, France only to find out the train was full. Walked over to the bus station and got a bus ticket to Montpelier the next day. It would be leaving from the Barcelona Nord Station that was actually closer to the Generator Hostel.
Montpelier, Budget Ibis Hotel.
Walked over to the Barcelona Nord bus station and got the bus to Montpelier. It was a 5 hour trip including a visit by the border police. Once I got to Montpelier, I was instructed to go to the hotel because Hannah could not meet me yet. So, I hopped on the light rail and went to Place de Europe, then I hiked to the hotel. Very basic hotel with very plain rooms. Pre-booked for two nights. Hannah and I did my wash and explored the city. Went to her sponsor’s house for supper, which was great. They took me back to the hotel in their car. Hannah came to visit me the next day and we did some more exploring. Luckily, I went on a weekend. Bused back to Barcelona on Monday Morning.
Barcelona, Hotelscat
Back at the Barcelona for one night. I picked a Hostel near the Barcelona Sants Railway Station. The Hostel is located in a good neighborhood for shopping and eating out. But the Hostel is down a very narrow street that looks like an alley. The Alley is lit up, so that is good. Very Basic hostel with the standard 8 bunks to a room.
Manresa, Xanascat Hostel
Took the local train all the way up to Manresa. That’s as far as the local train goes. Hiked around Manresa and visited some Ignatius sites including the cave where he wrote the Spiritual Exercises. Got a room at the Xanascat Hostel. I showed them my pilgrims credential from the Frances, and they accepted me as a pilgrim. Otherwise you cannot stay there. Nice room with two beds and a bathroom all to myself. Hiked around Manresa to a park on top of a hill. Went to mass at the Cathedral, but it only had 20 people because it was a weeknight. They did mass in a side chapel. Got to hear Mass in the Catalan Language.
El Prat de llobregat, Air Hostel.
Had breakfast at the Xanascat Hostel. Hiked down to the Train Station and got the local train back to Barcelona. Stayed on to the Arc de Triomf Station where I got off and walked to the beach. That was nice, and the actually had some topless females at this beach. Milled around the beach for an hour or so, then headed back to the Arc de Triomf Station. Took the local train to El Prat de Llobregat, the municipality next to the airport. Checked into the Air Hostel. Since it was early, I decided to take a hike out the the Mediterranean Sea where there is a beach. Nice paved bicycle path that takes you there. You get to a spot where planes at the airport fly right over you. About 50 people were there watching the planes. Continued on to the beach, which was nice. Then walked back to El Prat. Only problem was that it was dark and my phone was dead. I finally went into a bar and gave someone 5 euros to hike me to the hostel. Next morning I took a cab to the airport arranged by the hostel.