Day 21, Hospital de Orbigo to Santa Catalina
Went to the end of Hospital de Orbigo and had to decide between two routes. Since it was dark, I decided to take the less scenic road route. It eventually got to the highway and stayed next to it. Eventually it got to a road where I was going to cut over and join the other route, but a guy came along and said go straight, and there was an official sign and arrow pointing straight. So I went that way. Kept going next to the road. So going this way I managed to miss two towns that might have had breakfast. This route kept going along the road then it veered to the right and connected with the other route at a cross. This was above San Justo so I hiked down into the city and had breakfast. Hiked to the beginning of Astoria where the two Brazilian sisters caught up with me at the big green bridge going over the rail line. We walked together up into the old part of the city, but their Albergue was first thing so we separated there. I bought postcards and went to the library and wrote them. Then I went and toured the Gaudi Palace. Then I left town and the way started an uphill run. It had great view of Astoria. Couldn’t find any ice cream bars in Murias. Kept going and the trail went downhill right before Santa Catalina. Stayed at the hippy hostel that had a steep stairs. 26.2 km, 16.25 miles
Day 22, Santa Catalina to Riojas de Ambros
Ate a little breakfast at the Albergue La Boheme then set off with the 3 kids. Headed in the dark to El Ganso where there was no cafe open. Headed to Rabanal where I ate something. The way starts going up in the town where you reach a convent and a church that was open. Got a sello at the convent gift shop. The way continues to go up after the town. It goes up along a ridge where a bicyclist took a photo of me. It was getting more windy and cold when I got to Foncebadon, where there is a cross in the middle of the street. Headed up to Cruz de Ferro where my emotions were high when I placed a geode there. I obtained the geode during my time with Greybeard earlier this summer. Started going down and part of it was treacherous. Went to Manjrin which isn’t much of a town but has a food trailer. Continued down an right before El Acebo there was a place I had to slide down on my butt. Found my backpack at the second location of an Albergue. They have a location at each end of town. Kept going to an Albergue in Rioja de Ambros where I met up with Jonas and Mie. After the pilgrims supper we went to a bar for Wi-Fi. This would be the last night we would be together because they are going to start doing big miles. 31.2 km 19.4 miles be
Day 23. Riojas de Ambros to Pieros
I headed out of Riojas and immediately it was downhill, rocky and treacherous. I was making really slow progress and I was watching every foot fall. This was made worse because it was dark and I was using my headlamp. It would become better from time to time then it would get worse again. I finally got down to Molilesca, crossed over the bridge and had breakfast. I’ve finally gotten to a spot at the end of town where I had to make a decision whether to take the more scenic route or the road route. I took the more scenic route. But it wasn’t all that scenic. It went through the town of Campo and once it got to Ponferada it went over an old bridge. I finally got into Ponferada and there was an old fortress and church. I didn’t tour either of them but ate food at a cafe. On the route out of town I stopped at a grocery store and got some candy bars for Sunday, because all the stores are closed then. Went through the suburban of Columbriano where some locals gave me grapes they were harvesting. Went to a bar in Nuevas Fuentes and ordered a coke. I finished off the sandwich I got in Ponferada. Sonne from Germany was there. Columbranos turned out to be a long town. So was Camponaya. Hiked over to Cacabelos and found out the Municipal was closed. Sonne called Pieros and we went over there. 29.7 km, 18.5 miles
Day 24. Pieros to Los Herrerias
After Pieros you have to decide between two routes, the more scenic route or the road route. I chose the shorter road route. It went past the little town of Valtuille Which isn’t listed on most maps. After that the route takes a right on the gravel road. This is where there is a house With a vineyard That is photographed quite often. The two routes came together and I though I was hihing to a town that I saw. But that town turned out to be on the left of the trail and VillaFranca de Bierzo appeared ahead when I went over a hill. When I finally got there a pilgrim took a photo of me at the fortress then I had breakfast. Went through town and they were other old buildings including a church which I went to see if it was open. It wasn’t. I hiked out of town and the trail kept going up through a cool valley then I got to the spot where there was a freeway coming out of a tunnel. I hiked under the highway and next to the river Valvarce for the rest of the day. At Pereje I stopped for a soda. Kept going up through Trabedelo, La Portelo, Ambastmedtus and Vega de Valcarce. In Vega there was a highway bridge way up above the city. Same thing with the town of Ruitlain. Finally I made it to Las Herrerias where I stayed at the Casa Lixi. Here the river Valcarce is just a creek. 26.5 km. 16.4 miles.
Day 25, Las Herrerias to Fillobal
After Las Herrerias the way goes up fast. Got to La Faba and had a snack at Tito’s. I had breakfast earlier at Casa Lixi where I spent the night. Went up past Lagona but didn’t stop. Kept going up and up along a ridge with a cloud coming over the mountain. Kept going up with spectacular views. Made it to the monument where you cross over to Galicia, then made it into O Cebrairo. It’s a magical place. Took a photo sitting on the famous stone fence. Prayed in the church and lit a prayer candle. Took a photo with the Fr. Valine monument. Then I kept hiking, going up to San Rouge where there is a statue of a pilgrim holding his hat on in the wind. Easy hiking past Hospital but a steep uphill stretch before Alto Poio. Then easy hiking again through Fonfria, Biduedo to Fillobal. It is a small town with a good Albergue and restaurant. Plus a statue of a caveman a was a great place to see the sunset. 25.3 km 15.75 miles